The first time I came to Johannesburg was 2023, in the middle of winter, and the depths of load shedding - South Africa’s rolling energy crisis.
I landed in OR Tambo airport at 1am and got in my Uber to the city.
Immediately, I was pleasantly surprised by the scenery. We passed impressive business parks with working electricity, pleasant housing estates with well kept gardens. The road to Joburg was a smooth, modern highway, with nary a pothole in site.
But as we got closer to the city’s downtown – where I would be spending the next two weeks – things took a turn. Everything became increasingly less nice. The buildings, decrepit. The roads, woeful. The streets, dark, dingy, decaying and with a sinister feel about them.
Around 2am, we pulled up at my guesthouse.
Nobody at reception, nobody answering the phone, I was stuck outside, the air thick with my impending doom. Even my Uber driver was becoming uneasy.
Eventually, I was let in, checked in, and handed a torch to find my way to my room - the guesthouse had no backup power.
Undressing in the dark, and shivering under my bed sheet, I heard the familiar rat-a-tat-tat of gunshots uncomfortably close by.
And I thought to myself… “I should have just gone to Cape Town.“
But then….
In the coming days and weeks, I started to explore Joburg.
I walked and cycled through notorious neighbourhoods like Hillbrow and Yeoville. Spent my nights at dive bars, jazz clubs, and historic venues soaking up the city’s incredible music scene. Dined out on sumptious meals, and worked from delightful cafes serving perfectly brewed coffees. Spent my weekends at markets, festivals, and dance socials.
Along the way, I made friends and friends, and friends. Joburgers shocked me with their warmth, good humour, creativity, and energy.
Five months later, I still hadn’t left the city.
I’ll stop there.
You’re not here to read some guy shite on about his love for South Africa’s true capital.
You’re reading this because you’re at least curious about visiting Joburg - or maybe even moving here. Perhaps you’re already here (Hit me up!).
With that in mind, I’ll switch gears.
What follows is a very personal guide to living, working, and having fun in Johannesburg – written by a sober, aspiring vegetarian Irish digital nomad with a love of good books, movies, music, food, and occasional fitness pursuits.
My tastes may not match yours, but I’m confident that this guide will give you a taste of Joburg beyond the headlines and terrible reputation.
Just looking for cool things to do in Joburg? Skip the next few sections by clicking here.
A couple of practical notes:
In most cases, I’ve linked to a business’s Google Maps location. When that didn’t make sense (e.g., a recurring event or run club), I’ve linked to their IG or website (e.g. a tour company).
Unfortunately, many of my favourite spots in Joburg have closed down, and it’s difficult to keep up. I’ve marked any business I’m unsure of with a #. Check their status before turning.
This guide was last updated on 12th July 2025.
Where to Live - Neighbourhoods
We’ll start with the practical stuff.
Joburg is huge - the definition of urban and suburban sprawl. You can easily spend half your life here in the back of an Uber commuting from one neighbourhood to the next.
And there are plenty of places you don’t want to live.
The neighbourhoods listed below are not necessarily my favourite neighobourhoods in Joburg (they’ll feature later). I’ve chosen them based on combination of:
Safety
Convenience
Location
Affordability
Availability of good coffee and some social life
For that reason, they’re all in the Northern Suburbs:
Rosebank, Illovo, & surrounds: My go-to neighbourhood. Rosebank has all the conveniences you need, it’s easily walkable, there’s places to eat and drink, and it’s quite central.
For these reasons, it’s popular with young, middleclass-ish Joburgers, without the soulless pretensions of Sandton, Melrose, and similarly gauche areas.
However, while apartments are abundant, they’re quite pricey and difficult to get short term.
Sandton Central: “The Richest Square Mile in Africa“, Sandton is okay to live in and surprisingly affordable to rent. But see above, soulless. You’ll also be quite far from more exciting parts of the city and spend a lot of time in Ubers.
Parktown North & Parkhurst: West of Rosebank, we’re getting a bit hipper and more affordable. Apartments are more scarce, but you can find beautiful houses if you have a family or want to share.
Melrose: It’s all in the name. A mini-city for Joburg’s elite and spiring to be elite. Think Ferrari and McLaren dealerships, luxurious, modern apartments, and a complete detachment from reality.
Renting an Apartment
Like every major Africa city, short term apartment rentals in Joburg target corporate and diplomatic travelers who don’t pay for their accommodation, so finding a decent furnished one bedroom without a lease for under $1,000 is tough.
And Airbnb stock is limited.
But after repeated trips to the city, I’ve started building a directory of short term serviced apartment in Joburg just for youuuuu!
Bellow are my top picks so far, all around $500-700 per month, with more accurate prices coming soon:
Blackbrick Club, Sandton Central: Comfy, quiet studios in a convenient location. There’s also a coworking space, fitness and meditation room, cafe, and roof top lounge with occasional DJ parties.
#Hallmark House, Maboneng: I lived here for two weeks and loved it, but it won’t be for everyone – see above, dangerous part of town.
Circa, Illovo: A brand new lifestyle development in a fantastic location, with fitness and coworking facilities.
The Linear, Sandton: I’ve not been inside this building, but it’s similarly designed and priced as Blackbrick across the road.
If these don’t work out, you can try Property24 – South Africa’s biggest property listings website.
Hotels & Guesthouses
If you’re visiting Joburg for a short trip, these are my favorite spots to spend a few nights:
The Great Gatsby, Houghton: Ever wondered what happens when a rich Afrikaaner starts to run low on their inherited wealth? They turn their home into a guesthouse and call it The Great Gatsby – with zero irony.
A strange place, but worth a visit to get a peak at life in old money White Joburg.
The Bannister Hotel, Braamfontein: An affordable, classy hotel with a friendly vibe in the heart of a buzzing social district that features heavily in this guide (see below).
Curiocity Backpackers, Maboneng: The unnamed guesthouse in this meandering article’s intro. Curiocity shaped my initial experience in Joburg and may be the reason I fell in love with the city.
#Hallmark House, Maboneng: Hotel, artsy apartment building, rooftop nightclub, coworking space, dance studio, basement jazz lounge, and occasional residence of Trevor Noah.
Just don’t walk outside, it’s a little bit dangerous.
Where to Work
We’re nearly done with the practical stuff.
This section is for the remote workers and business owners in need of a good workspace, power outlet, and coffee.
Coworking Spaces
Maybe it’s my ADHD (diagnosed at 35 - whoop whoop!!!), but I much prefer coworking spaces to cafes. I can’t concentrate when I’m surrounded by noise, people milling in and out, and friendly Joburgers who have a tendancy to strike up conversations.
Most of Joburg’s coworking spaces are in the commercial districts of the Northern Suburbs. They’re very corporate and not focused on community. If you’re familiar with Neighbourgood in Cape Town - don’t expect anything similar here.
But if you need a functional, comfortable place to work, check out:
Workshop17, Rosebank and Sandton: South Africa’s WeWork and my go-to spot. A bit pricey but excellent facilities.
WeWork, Rosebank and Sandton:
MESH Club, Rosebank: A “highend“ coworking space that very new money Joburg. It is, admittedly, also very nice.
ArtistryJHB, Sandton: Part of a lifestyle venue of sorts (see below), I’m not sure how coworking membership works, but the space is very nice!
Laptop-friendly Cafes
When you don’t mind the occasional distraction or just want an excuse to visit a new part of the city, here are my top spots for good coffee, wifi, and workspaces:
Father Coffee, Kramerville
Grate, Illovo
Home of the Bean, Maboneng*
Bean There Coffee Company, Braamfontein
Honestly, there’s not much to tell these places apart.
They all adhere to the modern, IG-ready, vaguely Scandi/Japanese cafe aesthetic of white tiles, oak finishings, minimalist decor, soft edges, and very little character.
That’s not a diss. Just the truth.
If you don’t care about a perfectly crafted iced latte held delicately in your barista’s tattoo’d hand as they take a close-up shot of your cup against an out-of-focus white background – there are plenty of franchise coffee shops to choose from:
Motherland
Bootlegger
Starbucks (If you must)
*Giving Home of The Bean a special mention because it does not follow this.
Things To do in Joburg
Finally, the fun stuff.
I’m trying keep this list short, but so far, we’re at 60+ places to explore, eat, shop, hang out, take a tour, dance, party, unwind, workout, make friends, see some art, buy a book…..
And so on.
I’ll tidy this up some time in the future. But for now…
Walking Tours
Dlala Nje, Hillbrow: Stroll through one of Joburg’s most misunderstood areas, learn it’s history, taste some local food, and finish up on the 51st floor of a dystopian Brutalist monolith with stunning views of the city below.
Curiocity, Maboneng: They run weekly walking tours of central Joburg, including areas you can’t visit alone, to teach you the city’s historic and provide context for its current struggles.
(Cycling; Sunday mornings) Street Friends, Braamfontein: An exhilarating way to explore the sprawling downtown distracts with a fantastic group of cycling fanatics from across the city.
They run weekly group cycling trips to various locations, finishing up with drinks.
Cool Neighbourhoods
Maboneng: An attempt at urban
gentrificationrenewal that went a bit array. It’s glory days are behind it, but I still enjoy an occastional Saturday popping into various bars, cafes, stores, and games of pool at Curiocity.Braamfontein: A student neighourbood of sorts that’s undergoing a more successful attempt at renewal (although much more corporate, chic, and built for IG than Maboneng) called Play Braam.
4th Avenue, Parkhurst: A popular strip of bars and restaurants that get packed most evenings. The street is cordoned off with security, so you can freely roam and find somewhere that fits your vibe.
Melville: Once considered amongst the coolest neighbourhoods in the world, Melville has been hit hard by Joburg’s decline. It’s older, cooler bars are being replaced by generic shisha joints and weed shops.
Safety is an issue, too, but it’s still a vibrant spot to check out and has occasional street festivals.
Linden: A leafy, artsy suburb with abundant charms 20-ish minutes outside Joburg metro. You can easily access the city while enjoying a slower pace of life.
Soweto: Birthplace of Trevor Noah (yes, I’m a fan) and amapiano, Soweto is moe than South Africa’s most (in)famous township. You’ll probably visit on a tour, but if any Sowetans invite to their home for a weekend braai, don’t turn down the opportunity.
Hillbrow: Watch your Joburg friends eyebrows’ rise as you tell them some guy on the internet told you to hang out in Hillbrow.
Don’t come here alone. Visit as part of a Dlala Nje or Street Friends tour (keep reading).
Restaurants
The Blockman, Parkhurst: Come for the steaks.
Paul's Homemade Ice Cream, Parkhurst: Exactly what it sounds like.
Embarc Restaurant, Parkhurst: Ever seen the 2022 movie “The Menu“? You know what to expect.
Gaucho, Linden: Sumptuous Argentinian food.
The Whippet Linden: Popular brunch spot that’s usually packed. Book ahead. Get the scones.
Marble Restaurant, Rosebank: Come sunset, it’s bathed in warm golden sunlight. I assume the food is good. I don’t actually know.
Uncle Merv's, Maboneng: A whole-in-the-wall joint serving sandwiches and coffee.
Pata Pata, Maboneng: Modern twists on traditional South African home cooking. Big portions, lots of flavour, nice setting.
Dosa Hut, Fordsburg: Delightful Indian cafeteria in a neighbourhood you’d otherwise probably never visit.
More Coffee Places!
Less laptop-friendly, but still worth a visit - so bring a book or a friend.
Tarantino’s Coffee Co: I have no idea how I found this place, but if you don’t mind a trip downtown, it’s a hidden gem.
Hired Gun Coffee, Maboneng: “The Best Coffee in Maboneng“ - not sure I agree but I still swing by when I’m in the area.
O1N Coffee, Maboneng: A short walk from Maboneng main street, an Ethiopian spot run by a lovely couple, with comfy couches and cool interior.
Tilt Coffee, Melville: A no frills local cafe.
Spilt Milk - Social Cafe, Melville: Another no frills cafe!
Dough & Co, Parktown North: Hole-in-the-wall spot that’s perfect after a run or yoga session, with possibly the best cappucinos in Joburg and devilishly tasty pastries.
Nightlife
# Smoking Kills, Melville: A true dive bar! About 50cm wide, dingey AF, and home to Joburg’s hardcore punk crowd. So, obiously, the neighbours are trying to shut it down.
# Kitchener’s, Braamfontein: A 120+ year proper English pub that’s been converted into an alternative nightclub and music venue. It closed down and was re-opened under new ownership. I hope it’s not lost it’s soul!
# The Rooftop @ Hallmark House, Maboneng: By day, a chill rooftop bar with one of Joburg’s best views. By night, a popular club with the very young, creative crowd.
# The Marabi Club, Maboneng: A boomer jazz bar in Hallmark Houses basement. Pretty sure it’s closed, though.
The Royale, Craighall Park: I think this is a gay bar? If not, it’s definitely queer friendly and popular with the community. A friendly, chill, local bar vibe with a delightfully kitsch tropical aesthetic.
and club, Newtown: Joburg’s Berghain, housed in an old grain mill – the kind of place they put a sticker on your phone as you enter. IYKYK.
Betrand Café, Maboneng: It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but step inside, walk up the stairs, and you’ll be spellbound. I love Bertrand’s and come here often for live music or to relax in the library.
This is the most queer-friendly spot in the city.
Artivist & Untitled Basement, Braamfontein: Another lit basement jazz joint with a tiny fine dining restaurant above. Come for the live music, but book early.
Sin+Tax, Rosebank: A dimly lit cocktail bar down a dank alley next to a car park. Perfect. I’m told the cocktails are delicious. I stick to the mocktails.
Mamashaka & Friends, Braamfontein: A new spot that hosts live music and art events, I think. I came here once and liked it, but haven’t been back.
(Sundays) Afro-Latin Night at Ethos, Rosebank: For the salsa, bachata, kizomba crowd, this is the biggest weekly social. Dancing starts at 4pm.
(Wednesdays) Your Weekly Touch Up: A weekly showcase for alternative bands, spoken word performers, and DJs. Moves around so check IG.
(Monthly) Gbedu Nights: An all-female afrobeats DJ collective host a monthly celebration of the best sounds from across Africa, including kudoro, gengeton, and a
Shopping
Collectors Treasury, Maboneng: 3 million secondhand books stacked floor-to-ceiling in total disarray. No windows. Run by two Jewish brothers as old as the drab warehouse they operate within (maybe older).
In other words… Heaven.
44 Stanley, Braamfontein: A boujee little mall of mostly independant boutiques and restaurants. You’ll find a book shop, record, clothing stores, a cinema, music venue, coffee spot, and much more.
The Commune, Braamfontein: Another fantastic book shop. Aparrently, that’s all I’m recommending today, book shops. This ones a bit more political, very lefty, maybe a touch… Marxist?
I’ll come up with non-book shopping ideas soon, promise.
Markets
(Saturdays) The Playground, Braamfontein: The epicentre of the Play Braam urban renewal project that’s featuring heavily throughout this guide. Food, music, shopping, drinks, and lots of fine young things in their weekend bests.
(Weekends) Victoria Yards, Yeoville: Try to ignore the shocking poverty of the surrounding estates so you enter Victoria Yards. Or don’t, because that’s part of the Joburg experience. The astounding inequality.
Once inside, you can spend the afternoon exploring the Yard’s art galleries, boutiques, pop up bars, occasional random dance party, and mysterious quiet alleyways leading to various nucks and crannies.
(Sundays) Rosebank Sunday Market, Rosebank: A mix of farmers market, antique roadshow, street food bazaar, and art gallery. Considering it’s location, it’s much more down-to-earth than you’d expect.
*Unique Experiences
Ponte TowerSundowners at Dlala Nje, Hillbrow:
Yeoville Dinner Club, Yeoville:
The Rand Club, City Centre
Kwa Mai Mai Traditional Market, Maboneng:
The Beach, Braamfontein:
Rooftop Basketball Court, Braamfontein:
Irish Club, Linden: This one will have a very limited appeal. But any Irish person who looks at a map of Joburg will recognise our footprint in street names and neighbourhoods across the city.
So, for a taste of home, why not pop into the Irish community’s local haunt?
Jacaranda Season
Nature
There’s a lot more nature in Joburg than the two places listed below. I just haven’t visited them yet, because I’ve been too busy doing everything else on this list.
The Wilds Nature Reserve: While you can’t quite escape the sound of traffic from the nearby highways, you can find plenty of spots to relax throughout numerous gardens, walking trails, view points, and quiet corners.
Zoo Lake Park: Come for a stroll in the rolling landscaped gardens or rent a paddle boat on the lake. Either, expect a delightfully lazy time.
Standup Comedy
(Sundays) The Bioscope, Braamfontein: Hosted in an independent cinema that’s a Joburg institution. Good fun but never raise your hand. Trust me.
*Making Friends and Finding Community
Understanding Johannesburg
Some time in the near future, I’ll provide my non-expert opinions on the many historic, economic, cultural, geopolitical, infrastructural, and sociological trends that shaped Joburg and help explain it’s many modern day challenges.
But I’ve run out of steam writing this thing in a single sitting.
I’ll leave the poster below here for now. I’m pretty sure it’s computer-generated, but sums ups nicely everything that makes Joburg special.
Practical Advice
Main Languages | English (Official), Zulu, Afrikaans |
Main Airport | OR Tambo International Airport (JNB), roughly 45 minutes from the city with no traffic; For domestic flights, you may use Lanseria airport further north. Check your ticket. |
Currency | South African rand (ZAR) |
Time Zone | South African Standard Time (UTC+2) |
Plug Socket Type | South Africa’s annoying Type M big 3 pin plugs |
Best time(s) to Visit | September to November |
Internet Quality | Good. I’ve never had an issue with calls or streaming, so it should be fast and reliable enough for most people. |
Phone network | Vodacom |
Best VPN | ExpressVPN overall; NordVPN if you want something cheaper. |
Healthcare
A few places I’ve used for medical assistance.
Dentists | |
Dermatologist | |
Fitness
Gyms | |
Yoga | |
Run Clubs |
Getting Around
Joburg is the definition of spraaaaaawwwwwlllll - its my least favourite thing about the city. Yes, more than the poverty, crime, inequality, power issues, water issues, pot hole issues, issues issues, and general decay.
Man, I love to walk, okay? And Joburg is not a walkable city.
During the day, within the neighbourhoods I've featured, you can get around on foot easily enough. But they’re often 20-30 minutes apart by car. And at night, you’re not walking anywhere.
Fortunately, South Africa has abundant Ubers and, unlike their colleagues in Nairobi or Kampala, they’re professional, respectful, great for a chat, and don’t mess you around constantly cancelling.
Miscilaneous
Hair cut
Spa
Finally: Is it SaAaaAaffffeeee?
You, dear reader, will likely never experience any danger in Johannesburg – so long as you take the same precautions you would in any major city with extreme poverty, inequality, and crime.
You’ll be staying in safe parts of the city.
You’ll be in an apartment building with abundant security.
You’ll use Uber to get around at night.
And I know you’re not stupid enough to walk around unfamiliar neighbourhoods flashing your iPhone and Macbook.
Okay, I’ll be serious for a minute.
Are you white? If you follow this guide, you’ll often be the only white person in a space. Or an entire neighbourhood.
Everyone will know you’re not South African, will often come up to say hello, inquisitively ask how you ended up at this bar/event/dinner/yoga studio/district alone on a Friday night, become your best friends in the city, and politely guide to you a safer spot to order your Uber.
Are you Irish? Even better! We enjoy significant “Irish Privilege“ due to our struggles and historic solidarity with the anti-apartheid movement. Lay your accent on thick and strong, mo chara.
Now, having said all this, if you ever hear about an Irish man getting shot in the face while out for a stroll in the wrong part of Johannesburg, you’ll know who it was.
Okay, okay, I’ll actually be serious for a minute.
I obviously have rose-tinted view of Joburg. I’ve not lived through its decades long dissent into chaos and disorder.
I’ve never been carjacked, violently robbed, had my house invaded, or been kidnapped - at least, not in Joburg.
I have been robbed in Barcelona (Spain), Antalya (Turkey), Otres Beach (Cambodia), and Donnybrook (rural Australia).
I’ve been drugged – twice – while living in Thailand.
I once convinced a man in Nairobi (Kenya) not to rob me at knife point by appealing to his sense of dignity.
A spotty-faced teenager in Limerick City (Ireland) once tried stealing my sneakers to impress his date while I was wearing them.
And never has anyone asked me, “but is Ireland saaaaaaaafe?“
Anyway, I digress. Come to Joburg. You’ll be fine.
And if you’re still worried, stay in Cape Town. You can still tell your friends you went to Africa – although we both know that’s not really true.